Thursday 13 May 1993

Granada 2 – Alhambra

The title is special because I am visiting Alhambra, one of Spain's top attractions. Despite neglect, and modification, well-intentioned or not, it is one of the best preserved remnants of Moorish architecture in Spain. The name means The Red One.

Due to the rain, I slept well and had to be roused by my alarm clock. For breakfast I had hot chocolate and a pasta which are not noodles but a pastry. They are also called pasteles.

It was a tiring climb up the hill. But the alternative was to wait for a bus, and I was determined to beat the hordes.


From the outside the citadel doesn't look extraordinary, in fact it appears dilapidated.


A view of Granada and surrounding hills from the ramparts of the alcazaba (citadel).


The Torre de la Vela (Tower of the Flag) was where the flag of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Catholic reconquerors of Spain, was raised when Granada was taken in 1492. The morning was cold, a stiff wind was blowing and it was slightly overcast, but fortunately not raining.

On a wall near the ramparts is an inscription of lines by Mexican poet Francisco A. de Icaza: Dale limosna, mujer, que no hay en la vida nada como la pena de ser ciego en Granada (Give him alms, woman, for there is nothing in life like the pain of being blind in Granada). This refered to the visual glory of Granada in its golden age. As far as I know it was just a poem and not part of larger work such as a play.


Portico and sculptured garden.


The Palacio de Carlos V, a European addition to the Alhambra.


In the Moorish part of the complex, I was impressed by these honeycomb panels.


Everybody takes a frontal view of the Court of the Myrtles. Mine's a slanted view.


Closer view of the mosaic and intricate stonework.

Speaking of mosaics, the ground was paved with black and white pebbles, common throughout Iberia.


The Court of the Lions with fountain supported by those stone lions.


A closer view.


The Palacio del Pórtico.


The gardens are in the Generalife part of the complex. There were sculptured gardens and roses. The water jets were delightful. Moorish architects extracted every bit of energy from gravity. Pools higher up fed fountains further down.


A garden with more water jets. Birdsong descended from the trees and I enjoyed the ambience on a bench.

Also in the Generalife were hungry feral cats. Most of them were wary of humans, but one consented to sit on my lap and be stroked.

The rest of the day will be in another post.

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